General Information - Installation

Why do we recommend setting our frame using either a template door or the actual door for the opening?
Our frame must be adjusted to the door and cannot be set without a template. We recommend that you adjust the frame to the door to establish the clearances required. This assures that these clearances will be correct for any door of a similar prep. Also, by actually having the door in the opening, the door and frame can be tested to make sure there is no bind or twist and that everything will function properly. For very high doors 9' and over we recommend the use of a square and level in lieu of a door.

How long should it take to install a Timely frame?
With a little experience 15 minutes.

How can an installer learn the proper way to install Timely Frames?
Have them view the Timely Installation tapes - TA-29SI, TA-29AI, TA- 29IS and show them the Instruction Sheet which is located in the Installation Instructions section of your Technical Manual.

What are some of the selling points of our installation?
1. Because door and frame are installed together, only one trip is required to the opening
2. Less time required to install
3. Can install after prefinishing walls eliminating damage and jobsite call backs
4. Windows are knockdown, therefore, contractor can finish walls before installing. Also easier to distribute when compared to a welded frame.
Ex.: 3/0 x 9/0 window on 22nd floor

What removes glue from frames when foam sticks onto it, when shipping/packaging?
You can use vegetable oil or a blow dryer. Acetone can be used, but could damage paint.

What do we put over our Brass Frames?
We recommend epoxy or vinyl over all plated frames and Solid Brass. You may be able to use poly-urethene but test a small section first.

Can our frame be leadlined?
Yes

When using our Electro Galvanized Adjustable frame, when the contractor painted it the paint is coming off?
The only reason it would be chipping off, is because :
1. They used a water base paint. You should use a oil based paint.
2. The frames needed to be wiped down before painting to get any dirt or any other materials that may be on it. They should wipe it down with enamel reducer or mineral spirits.

Why do we recommend screws instead of nails for most Timely frame applications?
By using screws, the frame can easily be taken off the wall and relocated or if necessary, the screws can be removed if the frame needs to be realigned with door during the installation. With a screwdriver you eliminate hitting the frame and damaging it.

What size fasteners are used with the Timely frame for wood studs and for steel studs?
Wood studs = 6d or 8d common nails can be used, however, we recommend a
1 1/4" bugle head drywall screw
Steel studs = 1 1/4" bugle head drywall screw

What is the recommended method for setting a full height frame?
By using a magnetic level on both header and hinge side considering the high side of the floor. Secure header and hinge side. Hang door and adjust strike side.

When our frame is sleeved over a wall that is too thick for the frame intended, what is the major problem with hanging the door and why?
If our frame is sleeved over a wall that is too thick, the nailing flange spreads which causes the frame to cut at the hinge rabbet. Essentially, this creates a beveled condition for the frame leaf on the hinge. When the frame is beveled, it moves the pivot point of the hinge toward the strike side. This compounds when used with a beveled door as we recommend. In many cases, even though the door is sized properly and the dimension between the jambs are correct, the gap on the hinge side is so great that the door actually hits on the strike side and will not close. If you see an opening where the door does not close and the other measurements taken on the door are correct, the most common problem is a "fat" wall. If this condition is severe, we suggest using the adjustable frame to remedy the situation or a frame with a larger wall size. In an emergency, if a wall is narrower than the frame 1/8" to 1/4" then a shim made of 1/8" hardboard cut to 1" wide can be used between the wall and the frame on one or both sides of the wall to fill it out.

Why do we recommend our 5" (50) frame?
As you know, over 90% of all the door frames we manufacture are used in conjuction with drywall openings. One of the things we quickly learn about working with drywall is that it has a tendency always to grow and never to shrink. The most popular wall size we make is for a 4 7/8" wall (47). This size is almost always used over a wall that is made up of a 3 5/8" steel stud with a layer of 5/8" drywall on each side. The problems that then arise are as follows: When the frame is being installed, the installer generally loads up the tabs at both ends of the header with tek screws on both sides. This adds a minimum of 1/8" to the wall at the most critical place i.e. the corners, where we are looking for a perfectly tight miter. If there is any moisture in the building at the time of installation, the drywall will expand by taking on moisture, particularly if it is a raw cut edge. There is going to be some type of finish put over the wall. It may be a light stucco coat and most often it will be a vinyl covering. First, the adhesive takes up a little room and then two layers of vinyl over that, which are almost alwys cut flush with the edge of the opening instead of being allowed to be wrapped around so that our frame could slide over the wall instead of needing to use a putty knife as a shoehorn to get it on over the vinyl. Sometimes the drywall is applied after the installer lays a bead of adhesive on the studs with a caulking gun. If he doesn't respond quickly, it begins to dry and by the time he puts the drywall on, it is already pushed out from the wall about 1/8" or more. I'm sure we could add many other variables to this list. The fact is, however, that what starts out as a 4 7/8" wall easily winds up being a 5" wall or even more. When a 4 7/8" frame is used on a 5" plus wall, it becomes necessary for the installer to "open it up". When he does that, he creates a concave condition at the door stop, but more than that, he throws the axis of the hinge pivot toward the strike side and we have seen that done sometimes when the door, even though it is beveled, will hit the edge of the strike jamb rather than close smoothly. For the above reasons, we strongly recommend to our major distributors that you seriously consider the use of a 5" (50) frame for conditions where it will be used with a wall described above. In the worst case, even if the frame is a hair wider than the wall, the installers will love it for the ease of installation, and if it becomes necessary to tack the returns back a smidgeon on each side, there is far less damage esthetically from the opposite way and structurally it does not effect the installation at all. THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE IN PRICE BETWEEN A 47 AND A 50. For these reasons, we feel that a 5" frame is a much wiser choice than a 4 7/8" frame. This, of course, does not apply to conditions where a wood stud, which is 3 1/2", and two layers of 5/8" drywall are used to produce a 4 3/4" frame. In that case, the 47 is perfect.

Give two reasons why we must require a fastener at every clip or every 11" around the full perimeter of the frame?
1. To obtain our fire rating, we tested with a fastener every 11" around the perimeter of the frame and therefore, in order to retain the fire rating we must adhere to this rule.
2. The fastener is placed at each clip and it guarantees that the back side of the clip is tight to the wall. This feature holds the casing tight to the wall and keeps it from rattling or sliding.

What three requirements must be met to assure a tight miter when installing our frame?
In order to achieve a tight miter on our casing, you must first install the frame with a 90 degree angle between the upright and header. This can be easily achieved by making sure the ears on the header extend out to the edge of the upright and touch it all the way across. When assembling the header and upright casing pieces you must use our corner bracket to keep the pieces in the same plane and locked tight together. The third consideration is to make sure there is a fastener at each clip so the clips holds the casing tight to the wall.

When installing our frame in a masonry wall, why do we recommend using a wood sub-buck? What would be the masonry rough opening?
As you know, our frame only sleeves over the wall 5/8". Because concrete and block are prone to chipping at the edges, the fasteners may cause the material to break away without a good anchorage. By using a 2 by sub-buck it can be fastened solidly to the inside of the opening with a dynabolt or lead anchor and the frame can sleeve over the wood sub-buck and be solidly attached. The masonry rough opening should be 4" wider than the door width and 2 1/4" over the door height. If a fire rating is required, drywall must be applied to the sides of the sub-buck before attaching the frame.